150/15

ny-based artist darcel is celebrating french boutique colette’s 15th anniversary as one of the world’s biggest innovators of fashion, art, design, and retail with an exhibition of his infamous character darcel disappoints.  150 of the era’s biggest influencers in art, photography, fashion, design, cinema, and music, from coco chanel to wes anderson to kaws, are “darcellized”.  the exhibition runs from february 27th until march 31st.

some of my favorites:

michel gondry

spike jonze

wes andeson

tom ford

 

victor...

and rolf

karl lagerfeld

coco chanel

anna wintour

andy warhol

takashi murakami

jeff koons

marc jacobs

there are just so many…and they’re all great!  see the rest at colette.  OR, even better…download the pdf of all the darcels!

the business of luxury

so as many of you know, i’m applying for business school right now.  post-mba, i’d like to do brand management/marketing or strategy for a luxury goods company like lvmh, ppr, or coach.  of course this can all change once i start taking classes and recruiting.  i’m pretty sure that’s what i’d like to do functionally, but i’m also interested in hospitality, entertainment/media, and management consulting.

there isn’t much information out there for this career path since it’s pretty new to mba recruitment so i hope my post will be helpful for others.

ok, first of all…what programs should you consider?  european or american?  this issue’s pretty debatable and i’m not even sure if i made the right choice myself.  most luxury goods companies are headquartered in europe so it makes sense to think of european programs.  and unlike most american programs, there are plenty of schools that offer some sort of luxury specialization.  while american schools tend to be more prestigious and more highly ranked, you have to think of what will be best for your career…especially when you’re not going into traditional mba industries.  i personally chose to apply to american programs but if i hadn’t missed the january intake deadline, i would’ve also applied to insead.  i also thought about london business school.

top european schools with luxury programs (in no particular order):

  • sda bocconi – luxury business management track (partnered with bulgari)
  • hec paris – luxury strategies certificate (sponsored by ppr)
  • essec – international luxury brand management (lvmh chair)

these programs are pretty tempting since they have sponsorships/partnerships with some big names.  and while lbs and insead don’t have luxury specializations, you should also consider them because they are among the top mba programs in the world and especially in europe.  there are also programs with similar specializations from less prestigious schools.

if you’re looking at programs in the us (in no particular order):

  • harvard business school
  • stanford graduate school of business
  • upenn wharton
  • columbia gsb
  • nyu stern – luxury marketing

as you can see, stern’s the only top us school with a dedicated luxury specialization.  most of these other programs are on the list because companies looking for top talent will look at these prestigious schools and columbia/stern have the nyc accessibility and they have strong clubs in the area.  even the ny post has acknowledged hbs’ role in the fashion world.

i didn’t apply to any european programs because i didn’t want to pigeonhole myself; right now i’m pursuing luxury goods but what if i change my mind at school?  i didn’t want to be stuck.  this isn’t really a problem with lbs and insead because they’re some of the world’s best, but the other schools–even though they’re among europe’s top–they’re not the same level as the american programs.  i also want to work in the us so it makes sense for me to apply to an american program.  i really liked insead’s program but it’s a one-year program, which i feel is too short but i would’ve applied anyways if i hadn’t missed the deadline.

now, why am i choosing luxury goods amid an economic recession?  i think it’s something i’d really enjoy while supporting a comfortable lifestyle.  i’ve always liked fashion and i kind of work in the luxury industry already.  and to echo the same reasoning from this businessweek article: “the ultra-wealthy will always buy luxury goods, regardless of the fluctuations in the economy.”  actually, a lot of the major players have been doing extremely well during these tough times…mostly spurred on by growth in asia/china.  and to quote an ie professor who teaches on the subject, “in addition, new business opportunities are arising as a result of 3 important changes–the grown of chinese consumption, the development of technology, and changes in sonsumers’ values.  people are always attracted to industries that are growing.”

i realize it’ll be tough since these companies don’t really recruit on campus; i’ll have to do a lot of my own networking and job hunting outside of what the career resources my school can offer.  it may be especially difficult to start post-mba, so alternative tracks can be to do management consulting or working at a more mba-friendly company (l’oreal, p&g, nike, amazon, target) and transitioning later at a more senior level.

another harsh reality check is that the glamorous life doesn’t equal money.  retail is among the lowest paid careers for an mba (with banking/pe and management consulting at the top).  and because these are such sexy, popular companies, they don’t have to pay a lot…people will work there anyways–and they know this.  listen to essec’s academic director’s advice: “he’s also encouraging them to broaden their searches beyond luxury brands such as hermes and chanel and use their skills to land jobs at more mainstream companies with strong brand identities.  ‘you will have more power in a normal brand and maybe these people are willing to pay you a little more.  there are a million mbas lining up to work at vuitton lvmhor chanel, but if you think about going to the pumas or nikes of the world, then the sky’s the limit.'”

also be aware that luxury companies are asking for special profiles that they can’t even find in top business schools: “luxury goods require special managerial competences because they aren’t chosen for their functionality, but for their symbolic value.  […]  it’s important to understand the different competitive rules of the various luxury business […] and to decide whether you need to use general or specialist managerial tools.  plus you need to be international, open-minded, flexible, and a team-worker.  […]  this sector…needs people that are able to manage teams that integrate these two very difference profiles, the analytical and the creative one.”  if you take a look at the candidates lvmh is looking for in their futura initative, you can see this is true.  this sentiment is further cemented by the university of monaco’s associate dean, “there’s something a little magic about a luxury brand.  you have to be initiated and understand how it works.  it’s a lot more specialized and complex than it looks.

this discussion thread on find mba may also prove helpful.

from runway to mass market

did you like the new collections that are being unveiled at new york fashion week?  if you’re like me, broke that is, your best bet is to wait for things to trickle down to the mass market retailers.

and with runway shows being broadcasted in real time, you can expect to scoop up the hot designs faster than ever.  for spring/summer (s/s) and fall/winter (a/w), you should check stores in march and september respectively.

sure, we all know the mass retailers copy–i mean, have their own “inspired” pieces.  but learnvest noticed that certain retailers favor specific designers.  here’s the chart:

mass market retailers and the designers they love to knock-off

and the some of the most useful advice to take away from the article is:

“A final note: be discerning. Even though imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, try to replicate, not duplicate the runway looks. There are good knock-offs and then there are the bad. The bad attempt to be complete copies of the original but the good take the most important elements of the design and reinterpret it. So opt for elements of what drew you in to begin with. Was it the asymmetrical straps and ruffles of the Lanvin gown or the cut out detail on that Alexander Wang dress? Use that as a starting point of what you want to look for on the market.”

here are some examples of the inspired looks and their sources:

left: club monaco, right: chloe

 

left: topshop, right: balmain

left: forever 21, right: rag & bone

left: zara, right: prada