the business of luxury

so as many of you know, i’m applying for business school right now.  post-mba, i’d like to do brand management/marketing or strategy for a luxury goods company like lvmh, ppr, or coach.  of course this can all change once i start taking classes and recruiting.  i’m pretty sure that’s what i’d like to do functionally, but i’m also interested in hospitality, entertainment/media, and management consulting.

there isn’t much information out there for this career path since it’s pretty new to mba recruitment so i hope my post will be helpful for others.

ok, first of all…what programs should you consider?  european or american?  this issue’s pretty debatable and i’m not even sure if i made the right choice myself.  most luxury goods companies are headquartered in europe so it makes sense to think of european programs.  and unlike most american programs, there are plenty of schools that offer some sort of luxury specialization.  while american schools tend to be more prestigious and more highly ranked, you have to think of what will be best for your career…especially when you’re not going into traditional mba industries.  i personally chose to apply to american programs but if i hadn’t missed the january intake deadline, i would’ve also applied to insead.  i also thought about london business school.

top european schools with luxury programs (in no particular order):

  • sda bocconi – luxury business management track (partnered with bulgari)
  • hec paris – luxury strategies certificate (sponsored by ppr)
  • essec – international luxury brand management (lvmh chair)

these programs are pretty tempting since they have sponsorships/partnerships with some big names.  and while lbs and insead don’t have luxury specializations, you should also consider them because they are among the top mba programs in the world and especially in europe.  there are also programs with similar specializations from less prestigious schools.

if you’re looking at programs in the us (in no particular order):

  • harvard business school
  • stanford graduate school of business
  • upenn wharton
  • columbia gsb
  • nyu stern – luxury marketing

as you can see, stern’s the only top us school with a dedicated luxury specialization.  most of these other programs are on the list because companies looking for top talent will look at these prestigious schools and columbia/stern have the nyc accessibility and they have strong clubs in the area.  even the ny post has acknowledged hbs’ role in the fashion world.

i didn’t apply to any european programs because i didn’t want to pigeonhole myself; right now i’m pursuing luxury goods but what if i change my mind at school?  i didn’t want to be stuck.  this isn’t really a problem with lbs and insead because they’re some of the world’s best, but the other schools–even though they’re among europe’s top–they’re not the same level as the american programs.  i also want to work in the us so it makes sense for me to apply to an american program.  i really liked insead’s program but it’s a one-year program, which i feel is too short but i would’ve applied anyways if i hadn’t missed the deadline.

now, why am i choosing luxury goods amid an economic recession?  i think it’s something i’d really enjoy while supporting a comfortable lifestyle.  i’ve always liked fashion and i kind of work in the luxury industry already.  and to echo the same reasoning from this businessweek article: “the ultra-wealthy will always buy luxury goods, regardless of the fluctuations in the economy.”  actually, a lot of the major players have been doing extremely well during these tough times…mostly spurred on by growth in asia/china.  and to quote an ie professor who teaches on the subject, “in addition, new business opportunities are arising as a result of 3 important changes–the grown of chinese consumption, the development of technology, and changes in sonsumers’ values.  people are always attracted to industries that are growing.”

i realize it’ll be tough since these companies don’t really recruit on campus; i’ll have to do a lot of my own networking and job hunting outside of what the career resources my school can offer.  it may be especially difficult to start post-mba, so alternative tracks can be to do management consulting or working at a more mba-friendly company (l’oreal, p&g, nike, amazon, target) and transitioning later at a more senior level.

another harsh reality check is that the glamorous life doesn’t equal money.  retail is among the lowest paid careers for an mba (with banking/pe and management consulting at the top).  and because these are such sexy, popular companies, they don’t have to pay a lot…people will work there anyways–and they know this.  listen to essec’s academic director’s advice: “he’s also encouraging them to broaden their searches beyond luxury brands such as hermes and chanel and use their skills to land jobs at more mainstream companies with strong brand identities.  ‘you will have more power in a normal brand and maybe these people are willing to pay you a little more.  there are a million mbas lining up to work at vuitton lvmhor chanel, but if you think about going to the pumas or nikes of the world, then the sky’s the limit.'”

also be aware that luxury companies are asking for special profiles that they can’t even find in top business schools: “luxury goods require special managerial competences because they aren’t chosen for their functionality, but for their symbolic value.  […]  it’s important to understand the different competitive rules of the various luxury business […] and to decide whether you need to use general or specialist managerial tools.  plus you need to be international, open-minded, flexible, and a team-worker.  […]  this sector…needs people that are able to manage teams that integrate these two very difference profiles, the analytical and the creative one.”  if you take a look at the candidates lvmh is looking for in their futura initative, you can see this is true.  this sentiment is further cemented by the university of monaco’s associate dean, “there’s something a little magic about a luxury brand.  you have to be initiated and understand how it works.  it’s a lot more specialized and complex than it looks.

this discussion thread on find mba may also prove helpful.

toms get luxurious

hello, dear readers…it’s been a while since i last posted, have you missed me?

i love toms.  my feet get tired really easily, which has been irritating to no end, but my toms are like some of the most comfortable shoes i own.  in my trip to nyc in april, the most comfortable pair of shoes i brought were a pair of tory burch reva’s, which girls swear by as being comfortable (lies!).  my feet were in such discomfort from all the walking i was doing that i actually looked up the closest toms retailer on the website and quickly bought a pair for the rest of the trip.

what’s also great about toms is the philanthropic component of their business model, which is also a big marketing/selling point for them–as demonstrated in their motto/slogan “one for one”.

the row, one of mary kate and ashley olsen’s many companies, has collaborated with toms to create a collection made of italian-sourced wool and cashmere blends in their classic styles.  the price points range from $140 to $150, which are about 3x’s more than the price of their normal classic styles.

what do you guys think?

i don’t know how i feel about this.  it feels contradictory almost.  it’s important for toms to have appealing designs and be constructed well and out of quality materials but if one of their key missions is charity, it almost feels wrong to have such an expensive, luxurious pair.  i actually find toms rather expensive already at their normal prices but some can justify it as buying two pairs, including the one that’s donated (but you know, without any tax deduction benefits like real charitable giving).  they’re still donating a pair for each pair bought from this collection, but i almost feel they should be donating 3 pairs, rather than 1.

a peek inside louis vuitton voyages

i posted about the exhibition previously, but this is the first look i’ve seen inside.  looks amazing!

this photo was taken by luc castel at the national museum of china.  i was at south coast plaza yesterday and mentally noted how cute the hot air balloon display was at the louis vuitton boutique inside bloomingdale’s.

versace for h&m preview

the highlight of yesterday’s versace men’s show at milan men’s fashion week actually had nothing to do with the men–it was donatella versace herself, taking a bow, in a versace x h&m dress.

this may come as a surprise, since she has previously stated in a 2008 new york magazine interview, that although she respects other big designers for collaborating with mass market chains to create an affordable line, that she wouldn’t do one herself, “because i work very hard to put the versace line in the luxury section.  i think to put the versace line in h&m would confuse the brand.”  perhaps, to avoid the confusion, it’s being billed as “the iconic collection” rather than a diffusion line.  this will go nicely with the deal versace struck with lady gaga, winner of the cfda’s 2011 fashion icon, to wear only versace in the next several months.

when asked about the collaboration,  donatella said, “I am thrilled to be collaborating with H&M and to have the opportunity of reaching its wide audience.  The collection will be quintessential Versace, perfect for H&M and Versace fans everywhere.”

“Versace is one of the most important brands of recent times and their collection for H&M will be glamorous and flamboyant – everything Versace stands for. Donatella Versace is sharing with us iconic designs from the archives. This is such a celebratory collaboration and is perfect for the festive season,” says margareta van den bosch, creative advisor at h&m.

donatella will raid the archives of the fashion house that was originally started by her brother gianni in 1978 and reinterpret the designs for today.

the collection will roll out first on november 17th (in 300 stores & online) with women’s (around 40 pieces), men’s (around 20), and home collections.  followed by a pre-spring collection on january 19th exclusively in countries with h&m online sales (austria, denmark, finland, germany, holland, norway, sweden, and the uk).

per the h&m press release:  “The womenswear collection will be dominated by dresses that express the spirit of the [awards] season, featuring studded leather, silk and colorful prints, and accessories including high heels and costume jewelry. The men’s collection will focus on sharp tailoring, including the perfect tuxedo, as well as belts and jewelry for men. For the first time in a designer collaboration at H&M, the collection will include homeware pieces including pillows and bedspread.”

louis vuitton voyages

an animated short by mineki films highlighting the “louis vuitton voyages” exhibition at the national museum of china in beijing.  marking the luxury label’s 20th anniversary in china, the exhibit takes visitors through its history, starting with its humble beginnings as a luggage shop.

hotel missoni

i’m pretty excited that my firm’s working on hotel missoni belek, antalya in turkey.  we have some amazing designs and projects, but unfortunately i can’t afford to stay at any of these luxe hotels.

to give you an idea of what it might look like, here are photos from the other hotel missoni properties.

hotel missoni edinburgh

hotel missoni kuwait

hotel missoni belek, antalya isn’t slated to open until 2014.  other locations in the works are oman (2013) and brazil (2014).

i normally find missoni clothing too loud and 70’s-looking but i’m loving how it looks as an interiors palette…especially the vibrant colors and patterns.  now i’m really excited for the target collaboration.

and here’s a sneak peak to that!

over 400 products, priced all the way from $2.99 to $599.99…thankfully, most are supposed to be under $40.  i’ll be counting the days until september 13th.